Here are some of my most my most memorable trips dating back to 1996. All of these expeditions were made possible through the generous financial support of sponsors such as The North Face and the National Geographic Expeditions Council. In addition, several other companies have supported me over the years with gear and equipment including Sterling Ropes, La Sportiva, Petzl, Metolius, Clif Bar and Kastle. Each year I plan organize and execute at least one major expedition to some far flung location. So stay tuned, there is more to come....

Middlebury College, VT
B.A. in philosophy 1993
Dean's list 1990, 1992; College Scholar 1993
Alumni Achievement Award 2001

Professional Experience

Climbing Magazine
Senior Contributing Editor

The North Face
Climbing Team member
Technical Consultant to Product Development

Freelance Photojournalist
My work has appeared in: National Geographic, National Geographic Adventure, Outside, Men's Journal,
Climbing, Skiing, Unlimited, and many other publications.

National Geographic Magazine
April-July 1998 -- climbing talent for documentary on Baffin Island big wall first ascent.

National Geographic Television
April-July 1998 -- climber/videographer for documentary on Baffin Island big wall first ascent
August 1998 -- chief rigger/climbing talent for documentary shot in Iceland
December 1999 -- climber/expedition leader for documentary on freeclimbing in Cameroon
July 2000 -- chief rigger for documentary shot in British Columbia

NBC Television
June-August 1999 -- climber/videographer/expedition
leader for documentary on climbing Great Trango Tower in Pakistan

Warren Miller Films
June 2001 - climber/skiing talent for
climb and ski descent from the NW summit of Mt. Waddington, Coast
Range, BC

Media Presentations
I present approximately 20 slide shows a year

Piolet D'Or NW face of Great Trango
Tower nominated in 1999
Mugs Stump Award 1996 for ascent of Polar Sun Spire in Baffin Island
AAC Mountaineering Fellowships to Baffin island 1995, 1996
National Geographic Expeditions Council Grant for 1999 Cameroon
Rhumsiki Tower expedition, 2003 Mt. Roraima expedition, and 2005 Pitcairn Island expedition

The North Face, La Sportiva, Metolius, Sterling Ropes, Petzl, Clif Bar

Climbing Achievements

Baffin Island
The Great and Secret Show VII 5.11 A4
WI3 North Face of Polar Sun Spire (
first ascent)
Crossfire VI 5.10 A4 South Face of Great Cross Pillar (
first ascent)
Nuvualik VI 5.10+ A3+ West Face of the Turret (single push: 40 hrs/with fixing;
first ascent)
Rum and the Lash VI 5.10 A4+ Northwest Face of Sail Peak (
first ascent)

Karakoram, Pakistan
The Ship of Fools VII 5.11 A2 WI6 Northeast
Face of Shipton Spire (
first ascent)
Parallel Worlds VII 5.11 A4 Northwest Face of Great Trango Tower (
first ascent of NW Face and West summit)

The Compressor Route 5.10 A1 Cerro Torre
(27 hours from Norwegian camp)
SCUD 5.11, 7 pitch direct start to Exocet, Cerro Stanhardt (attempt)
Attempted first alpine style ascent of Fitzroy's 2200m Slovak Route on west face

Attempt on North Face of Jannu (25,294

Shaken Not Stirred, west face of Moose'sTooth,
Alaska Range, (reached middle summit, 6 hrs. on route)
The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs V 5.10c, west face of the Eye Tooth (24 hours r/t)

The Great Technical Adventure 5.12d
Rhumsiki Tower (
first ascent, 10 pitches, redpointed route)

The Shooting Gallery VI 5.10 A2+ West
Face of North Howser Tower (led every pitch;
Beckey-Chouinard V 5.10 Southwest Pillar of South Hower Tower

Canadian Rockies
East Face of Mt. Babel IV 5.11 (15 hrs. car to car)
East Ridge of Mt. Temple
East Ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell

El Capitan: 22 ascents including 2nd ascent of Reticent Wall (A5) and single pushes on Lost in America
(24:47; 2nd fastest), Tangerine Trip, Lurking Fear (9+ hours), Nose
(13:45), and West Face

Regular Northwest Face VI 5.10 A2 Half Dome (one day)
Lost Arrow Spire Direct VI 5.11 A3 Yosemite Falls Wall
Misty Wall VI 5.10 A3 Yosemite Falls Wall
West Face V 5.10 A2 Leaning Tower (single push: 7 hrs.)
South Face V 5.10 A1 Washington Column
Steck-Salathe V 5.9 Sentinel
Chouinard-Herbert V 5.11+ Sentinel
Direct North Buttress V 5.10 Middle Cathedral

Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Stratosfear VI 5.11+ R Painted Wall
The Dragon Route VI 5.10 A4 (first winter ascent of Painted Wall)
Paint it Black VI 5.11 A3+ North Chasm View Wall (2nd ascent, winter)
Air Voyage V 5.12a North Chasm View Wall
Scenic Cruise V 5.10 + North Chasm View Wall
Goss-Logan V 5.11 R North Chasm View Wall
Astro-Dog V 5.11+ South Chasm View Wall
Southern Arete V 5.10+ Painted Wall

The Desert Southwest
The Ball and Chain VI 5.10 A4 North
Face of Angel's Landing, Zion (3rd ascent, led every pitch)
The Sundevil Chimney VI 5.9 A4 The Titan, Fisher Towers
Colorado NE Ridge V 5.9 A2 King Fisher, Fisher Towers
The Kor Route V 5.10 A3 Steamboat Rock, Dinosaur National Monument
(3rd ascent)
Approximately 20 desert tower free routes

Selected Ice Routes
Acid Howl, Canadian Rockies WI 6+
The Terminator, Canadian Rockies WI 6+
Les Miserables, Canadian Rockies WI 6+
Gramusat Direct, Tete Du Gramusat, France WI6+
Hydnefossen, Hemsedal, Norway WI 6+

Mixed Routes
Manchurian Refuge M7+ Trollville, NH
first ascent)
Cold, Cold World M8+ Eagle Cliff, NH (2nd ascent)
Snake LipM8 Trollville, NH (
Diaper Rash M7 Trollville, NH (2nd ascent)
The Mongol M8 Trollville, NH (1st ascent)

Free Climbs
Best on-sight: 5.12b
Best redpoint: 5.13b